Malad, Mumbai: Aksa, Marve and the Madh Coast
Malad is far enough north that the city loosens. The suburb itself is malls, offices and apartment towers along the Link Road, but drive twenty minutes west and you reach a strip of coast that feels like a different place: the villages and long beaches of Marve, Aksa, Erangal and Madh, a ferry across the creek to Manori, and a Portuguese fort. This stretch was a chain of separate islands off Salsette until about two hundred years ago.
It is where Mumbai goes for a weekend afternoon by the sea. One rule matters above everything else here: do not go into the water.
The short version
- Getting there: Malad station on the Western line, or Metro Line 2A to Malad West on the Link Road, then an auto or cab west to the coast, about 20 to 30 minutes. From Versova in Andheri, a small ferry crosses to Madh in a few minutes.
- Time needed: an afternoon
- Best time: a winter afternoon, from about 3 PM until sunset. Weekends are crowded; weekdays are quiet.
- Good to know: the sea along this coast has strong currents, shifting sand and a long record of drownings. Swimming is prohibited at Aksa and lifeguards are posted, but drownings still happen. Paddle at most, and keep children well back in the monsoon.
An afternoon on the coast
- Marve and the Manori ferry. Start at Marve, at the northern end of the coast, where small ferries leave the jetty every few minutes for Manori across the creek. The crossing takes a few minutes and costs a few rupees, and it saves an hour by road. Manori is a village with its own beach, worth an hour’s wander.
- Aksa Beach. Come back and head south to Aksa, the busiest and widest of the beaches, with food stalls, families and a long, flat stretch of sand. The Indian Navy’s INS Hamla base is at one end. It is a good place to watch the sunset; it is not a place to swim.
- Erangal and Madh. Further south, the road runs past Erangal to Madh village, with private bungalows that are rented out for weekends. Madh Fort, a small Portuguese fort taken by the Marathas in February 1739, stands at the southern tip. It is inside an Indian Air Force area and closed to visitors, so you can see it only from outside.
- Back via Versova. From Madh jetty, the ferry crosses the creek to Versova, where you can walk through the Koli village and take an auto to Versova metro station. Our Andheri guide covers that side.
Where to eat
The beaches have stalls for chai, bhutta (roasted corn) and snacks, and there are a few restaurants at the bungalow resorts. For a proper meal, eat in Malad:
- Kamats Legacy: South Indian vegetarian with a Kerala lean, an unlimited breakfast on a banana leaf, and festival menus through the year, including an Onam sadhya of thirty-odd dishes. Open from 8:30 AM.
- The Food Studio: a big multi-cuisine restaurant and bar on the New Link Road, built for groups and family dinners, open until past midnight.
- Global Fusion: an international buffet with live counters and a sushi bar, at Infiniti Mall on the Link Road.
See every restaurant we list here on our Malad West restaurants page.
Practical notes
- Getting around: autos are easy to find in Malad, and the coastal villages are well north of the line where they stop. Getting one back from the beaches on a weekend evening can take a while, so agree a return trip or book a cab.
- The malls: Infiniti Mall and the multiplexes on the Link Road are where the western suburbs go on a rainy day.
- Respect the villages: Marve, Aksa, Erangal and Madh are home to old East Indian Catholic, Koli and Pathare communities. Ask before photographing people, and do not leave rubbish on the beach.
- Getting on: the Global Vipassana Pagoda at Gorai and Sanjay Gandhi National Park are both further north, from Borivali.
Sources
- Wikipedia, Aksa Beach: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aksa_Beach
- Wikipedia, Marvé Beach: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marvé_Beach
- Wikipedia, Madh Island and Madh Fort: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Madh_Island
- Audiala on visiting Madh Fort: https://audiala.com/en/india/mumbai/madh-fort
- Mumbai7 on Marve beach and the Manori ferry: https://mumbai7.com/marve-beach-malad/
Header photo: Aksa Beach in the afternoon by Sobarwiki, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.